Désert de Retz

Between 1774 and 1789, François Racine de Monville, a man of the Enlightenment with a passion for architecture, botany, and music, designed a garden in the Chambourcy Forest unlike any other. The Désert de Retz is a 17-hectare Anglo-Chinese garden featuring “fabriques”—small, picturesque structures evoking various cultures and eras—scattered throughout a wooded park filled with rare tree species. Together, they form a journey of discovery through Ethics, the Enlightenment, China, and Freemasonry: each “fabrique” is a tableau, an architectural reference, a fragment of philosophy brought to life.

Seven structures have stood the test of time and can still be seen today: the “Destroyed Column,” a massive, broken column shaft that once served as a dwelling for Racine de Monville himself; the “Tatar Tent”; the ruined Gothic church; the Temple of Pan; the “Little Altar,” now nearly in ruins; the open-air theater; and the “Ice House Pyramid.” The romantic state of ruin of certain structures is intentional—it is part of the garden’s aesthetic vocabulary. Listed as a Historic Monument since 1941, the estate has been owned by the municipality of Chambourcy since 2007.

The garden is open to the public every Saturday from April through the end of October, either for self-guided tours (2:00 p.m.–6:00 p.m., last admission at 4:30 p.m.) or for guided tours at 2:30 p.m. (reservation required). Guided tours organized by the Tourist Office take place on select Saturdays and Sundays. There is no internet access on site: download the “Le Désert de Retz” app before your visit.

2026 Prices: Self-guided tour: €10 for adults, €6 for children (ages 8–17), free for children under 8; guided tour: €14 for adults, €8 for children. Book guided tours at ledesertderetz.fr. Address: Allée Frédéric Passy, 78240 Chambourcy. Phone: 01 39 22 31 31.